Last Updated on June 24, 2019 by PowersToTravel
It was at this point in the trip that I looked at my husband and said, “Albania is supposed to be beautiful. It’s been very interesting, and the ruins and castles have been fantastic, but I haven’t seen any beauty.” He said, “I was about to say the same thing to you.”
Our car climbed the mountains on the seacoast south of Vlore, to Llogara Pass. On the way up, at Dukat, we saw the remains of an old Roman road zig-zagging down (or up, depending on your perspective) the mountain. Yes, the location was named Dukat, after ‘ducat,’ from the Roman coin.
By now Kledi was learning that we did not spend much time at the cafes, at coffee breaks; we spent our time stopped a the side of the road taking pictures.
“Would you like a coffee?” Kledi would offer.
“No, but I’d like that Donkey.”
“Oh, there’s a farmstand,” I would exclaim.
“Would you like something to eat?”
“No, just a picture.”
The car climbed the mountain and we found ourselves in a cloud. A short time later we crested the mountain and descended into the sunshine. Here’s the beauty! The blue Ionian Sea lapped against a white ribbon of beach, while the mountains to the east loomed over the sea. We stopped for pictures partway down at a derelict building, covered in strange penguin graffiti. We then zig-zagged down the mountain. At the bottom, we encountered a small road that turned right towards the sea. “This is a brand new road. I’ve never been on it. You want to try it?” asked Kledi.
Of course we wanted to try it. We landed on a beautiful beach with a single small cabana / cocktail bar and a couple of umbrellas. Only one other group was on the beach.
The beaches in most of Albania are pebble, not sand. Beautifully variegated sea-smoothed pebbles. I have neuropathy so I must protect my feet. I seldom go barefoot, am always in socks, and slippers or shoes. So my feet are not hardened and I was glad to have my waterproof sandals on. However, it seemed that most of the bathers there were barefooted. I live in New England where the sea water is cold, and the waves are rough. Here between Vlore and Sarande, the Ionian Sea lapped the shore in waves that were barely a half an inch high. I can see why in the summer the Albanians flock to the beach. Albania is not an international destination and Albanians are not wealthy, but so many rent efficiency apartments at the beach. And what a beach.
After this brief photostop we continued on, this time past another series of bunkers. I had read that I would see thousands of bunkers, and it was no lie. It seemed that every several miles another different type of derelict bunker would present itself. Kledi explained that the Communist philosophy was “a bunker for every man”. “What about the women?” I asked. “They didn’t get any. When the sirens would blast, every man was to dash to his assigned bunker, ready to defend against the westerners, either from the sky or sea.”
The bunkers now are derelict, covered in graffetti, and something that one does not wish to approach. Greg and Kledi had descended into one in the park in Tirana. That one was cleaned and on display for tourists. Here we took an exterior picture and traveled on.
We drove south along the edge of the Ionian Sea, under the blue sky, with the sun sparkling on the gentle sea. We weaved our way down the mountains and along the coast, passing through small villages. We pulled off the road into a small parking lot. This was Himarë Castle, a fortified hilltop which dates back to the Bronze Age. We strolled up the path, passed vine-covered walls, to reach the top. The church was still intact, the walls still protective on the sides, but the buildings inside tumbled down. The sky was blue, with puffy white clouds, the breeze was warm. It was a dreamlike location. As we returned to the car, a donkey was grazing in the meadow. It seemed as if we were thousands of year back in time.
Related Links
Visit Albania page with a Google map It doesn’t have any text info, but it does show the castle’s location on the map. I was so busy drinking in the sights that I have no clue where the castle actually was.
Check out this article of mine too:
Albania Travel Blog – Itinerary, Impressions and Diabetic Travel Tips
A most interesting section of Albania, and presented so well. No wonder that you might be willing to return to that country. Did you consider taking us with you. Lila