Last Updated on March 14, 2023 by PowersToTravel
We followed our guide Hamid through the narrow alleys of the historic medina in Fes, Morocco. The medina dates back to the 9th century, and flourished in the 13th and 14th centuries.
My camera swiveled with its own curiosity among the amazing mosaic of tiny shops, the Ben Inania Medersa, the tall pyramids of spices, the University Al Karaouin, the aroma of the bread baker, the home of the Moses Maimonides, the donkeys pushing their way through the crowds, the cats clustered at the butcher’s stall.
After at least an hour of education – the oldest continuing university in the world, the Moroccan arts of mosaic and plaster work, what to take pictures of and what to avoid, we paused near the university.
“Would you like to take a rest, sit down a bit, and have a tea? Would you like a closer view of the decorative arts?” our guide asked.
Of course the answer would be “Yes.” However, he led us away from the beautiful serene courtyards of the University and through another several alleys.
We arrived at a door and were ushered into a riad in the midst of the medina. We saw other groups of European or America tourists sitting on benches, sipping their mint tea. Men in white coats were pulling out carpets from piles and throwing them on the floor with a masterful flourish. As we paused in the entryway, MY multi-colored rug fluttered down, as if in slow motion, to the marble floor in the center of the courtyard. Mesmerized, I pointed to it, and said to Greg, “There’s OUR carpet.”
Our guide passed us over to another house guide, who took us on a tour of the riad, showing us more plaster-work, carved and painted doors, marble and mosaic tile. I even took a picture of the walls and doors of the Ladies’ Room.
The center courtyard of the riad had been covered by a roof, and layered with carpets such that no outside light penetrated. The area was lit by huge chandeliers and sconces. The walls were covered in carpets, and carpets were piled high in every corner.
I felt as if I were in an Aladin’s cave, however the other tourists sipping their tea interrupted the image. “How silly,” I thought, “People actually being expected to buy a carpet on vacation?” We had always bought home small trinkets and memories from our vacations.
“Sit down, sit down, enjoy some tea. Relax.” We did not hesitate as we were tired, and the riad was also a feast to the eyes. “I see you have an eye for beauty. You immediately saw your carpet when you walked in.” I had almost already forgotten the carpet which was being thrown about as we walked in. I knew we couldn’t afford it. I had learned in my travels that bargains in foreign countries were usually a thing of the distant past, before the Internet and Jet age.
So I leaned back to enjoy the show. I had been shopping for a rug for our living room for several months prior to our vacation, but we had never settled on one. Nothing we had seen in the shops or on the Internet said “Yes!” enough to cause me to buy.
Hakim Hamid, as he introduced himself, (not to be confused with our Hamid the guide) began a show of carpet colors and sizes, thrown about by his assistant, like silk scarves in the wind. We sipped our tea. He soon became aware that I would not be swayed from my original choice. He extolled its virtues, which were many. My choice was a large colorful “Fes” carpet, about 7′ by 10′. At the time I thought that was peculiar name, but have been assured by many since then, that the style is unique to Fes. Winter and summer, the carpet is handmade wool, double-sided, with a slightly muted pattern on the alternate side. It a geometric blend of multicolored squares, each slightly different. The one I had fallen in love with had much bright red (matching our drapes and all of Greg’s décor accent) and teal blue (our wedding colors). “You must turn the carpet in the winter to prolong its life.”
I could see that the show and stories would continue until I said the magic word, “Combien?” (How much?)
Then began the bargaining.
“Oh for such a carpet, that speaks to your heart, he must be worth 2800 dollars!”
“But I am inconsolable! (Je suis desolée!) Nous ne sommes pas riches, and only have a small apartment. I have loved the carpet, vraiment je l’aime. But we cannot afford it.”
“How much can you give for such a carpet that is now in your heart?”
“It is an embarrassment, and nous sommes desolés – We can only afford $1000”.
“But he speaks to your heart and your heart must have what the heart must have!”
“My heart is full of travels and what I could not do if I spent my money on a single carpet.”
I knew the value of the carpets which I had shopped in the US, and knew what number I would stop at. I knew that if I could purchase the carpet for that amount, I would have a fine carpet, unlike any I had every seen at home or on the Internet. But, I certainly didn’t know the real value of the carpet, as I have never seen one like it before. I only knew its value to me.
We laughed at the pleasure of seeing such a beautiful carpet and at Hamid’s bonamie.
Greg and I stood, quickly, on our final number, and it was then Hamid who was desolé. “But maybe we can find you a smaller carpet, that you will like just as much.” The unfurling began once again, but I felt less entranced. Smaller (5′ x 7′) carpets were strewn across the floor, but none had the same brightness. Finally Hamid turned to go to the “Man in the corner office” (just like at a car dealership!). He said with a flourish, “Madame, you must be an artist, for such a carpet, and none other, to speak to your heart!”
I responded, “Oh, I am not an artist, but I am a writer.”
“A writer of what?”
“Travel books and of my travel blog.”
“Ah you are a writer! I knew you are an artist. I will ask the owner if he will sell to you and maybe you will write about us?”
“It will be my pleasure, as much pleasure as it was to see your beautiful carpets.”
Suddenly we found ourselves the owner of a large wool carpet, at the price we had planned. It (or he, being in French, “Le Tapis”) was masterfully folded into a square, wrapped in heavy paper, sewn into a heavy plastic wrapping. A rope handle was fashioned and attached. They had us hand-write our name in permanent magic marker on the package. Our guide made magic marker slashes on the seams of the package, forming a type of “wax-letter-seal” to prevent tampering. The credit card was charged, in the amount agreed upon. It was arranged that the white-coated assistant would meet our vehicle at a location outside the medina.
Upon learning of my plans to write about my experience, through the actual purchase process, we bantered as to who would be featured. Our laughing and smiling cashier Aicha competed with our host Hakim Hamid. Hakim read to us the text of Frommer’s from an old and much-read volume, which described, in fewer words, the same extraordinary experience. It is to be surmised that the writer of Frommer’s didn’t actually purchase the perfect carpet for his or her living room.
The name, I learned, of the establishment is “Aux Merveilles du Tapis” (22, Sebaâ Louyet, B.P. 733, Fes – Medina, Morocco.)
It was with excitement we presented our carpet to our driver, for him to find a place in the trunk. Thereafter, we referred to our vehicle as “Oualid’s Magic Carpet”.
Our own, from Aux Merveilles du Tapis
We have since searched the Internet trying to determine if we paid fair value for our carpet. We have seen pictures of it in Google Images, but when we click in we find blogs describing the Fes Carpet Buying Experience. Everyone who mentions buying, buys other types of rugs. We have found only one similar carpet, on eBay, with a price of $3000. I won’t publish here the exact amount we paid. Somehow it would feel as if I were spoiling the adventure of it all.
Now our carpet is at home in our home. It (or he!) fits perfectly and has all the life and excitement we anticipated. One recommendation is to somehow view in the daylight the carpet you intend to purchase. The color of our carpet is much more vibrant in our home than I remembered in the carpet riad. That has not been an issue at all, since we were shopping for vibrancy. But it could potentially be a problem if someone were trying to match a specific décor or color.
The other, more important recommendation is to know the value of the carpet TO YOU. Be firm on your price, and certainly be willing to walk away, disconsolate (Je suis bien desoleé), yet smiling and grateful for the experience and tour. You will be surprised to see how happy you become, if indeed you do want your carpet and as Hamid says, “It speaks to your heart.”
If you are the type of person who has trouble saying “No”, I recommend you do not enter the carpet store. But if you are able to say “No”, then enter the riad expecting the Arabian shopping experience of your dreams, in a Fes Moroccan carpet store.
Our Fes carpet home at last
Related Links
Frommer’s http://www.frommers.com/destinations/fes/276988
UNESCO World Heritage Site – Fes – http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/170
Diabetic Travel Tips
Absolutely DO NOT enter a carpet store if your sugar is low. Luckily I was in good shape and was able to make good decisions. When the guide recommends that little break with Tea, immediately check your blood glucose. If you are running low, do not think it is a good idea to relax there. Go sit on a stone wall somewhere and drink a Coke until your brain re-appears.
Check out this article of mine too:
Morocco Travel Blog – Itinerary, Reviews and Diabetic Travel Tips
