Last Updated on June 24, 2019 by PowersToTravel
We continued south and the weather deteriorated; it began to rain as we arrived at Apollonia, a significant Roman ruin west of Fier. It sits alone on a plain, apparently far from any valuable natural features, such as rivers or bays. The town of Apollonia was originally the Illyrian town of Gylakeia and had grown up on the banks of the river Aoos. It was a prosperous outpost of the Roman Empire. Augustus was educated at Apollonia, and was living there when he learned of the assassination of Julius Caesar.
However, in the third century AD, an earthquake rocked the area. It destroyed a great deal of Durres and permanently altered the course of the river. Apollonia slowly died as the harbor filled in, and it lost its connection to the Empire.
The site includes an original Byzantine Church which is open to the public and well worth a visit. Next to the church are new museum buildings in the same style. Due to the rainy weather we spent more time in the museum than I would have generally.
It was time very well spent. It was there that we saw a restored Illyrian Shield that was amazing. We were unfortunately not allowed to take pictures inside. We also saw many Roman statues missing heads and limbs. We learned that it was common for the wealthy to order a statue, and it would arrive in pieces. Workmen would assemble the pieces – the torso, arms and legs. Then only the head would be custom carved. I had always thought that the Roman statues had been vandalized, but realized the Legos had fallen apart.
Now we were able to stroll, in the rain, past the monumental arch and through the ancient agora. Apollonia was my first-ever Roman ruin. I was surprised to see that the buildings were constructed of red brick. Somehow to my so-long-ago educated mind, I had an image of white Roman marble. It was actually brick that the Romans used in Albania. We had seen evidence of it in Berat and now it was quite obvious in Apollonia.
After a rather damp tour, we had lunch at the little restaurant at the ruins. We had the chicken and rice dish, a large skillet of yellow rice with baked chicken. It was so delicious and could have fed an army. (Since our hotels in Albania did not have microwave ovens we were forced to leave our leftovers with our guide, who probably ate very well!)
Diabetic Travel Tips
There’s a restaurant right on site and it makes a great lunch stop.
Related Links for Apollonia, Albania
Picture of the Illyrian Shield
National Geographic site for Apollonia
Check out this article of mine too:
Albania Travel Blog – Itinerary, Impressions and Diabetic Travel Tips
